Forever Simone

More and more I am starting to think that there is nothing wrong with my turbo and that my rings may actually be shot on number 1. the blowby my car is getting is down right retarded, but that's a subject for another day. I'll have a compression test done before I get into any of that madness. I tore the harness apart tonight and inspected what needed inspecting. I put a fresh piece of wire from the shielded signal wire to my tps straight onto the connector pin itself. Turns out the shielded wiring is grounded at the ecu. It does not need to be grounded at the other end, however it should not be touching any solder joints. Which mine was, so this explains why my tps was being fucking whacky. Here is the harness all back together. And after I got it all buttoned up, cleared the ecu codes and set it at .45 volts like instructed to. Call me a happy camper, I seriously was contemplating buying a new engine harness, mine has been butchered all to hell since the swap origin...

How can I put this, when it rains it pours?  I cannot express enough how grateful I am for the friends that I have made throughout my car. I was headed to a buddies house to grab a spare IAVC/AAC and TPS sensor for my car to fix the idle issue that's been bugging the shit out of me for half a year now. I stop at starbucks, get my coffee on cause I'm tired as fuck. Hop on the freeway and get my cruise on, and for some reason my rpm's just seemed high to me like I was only in third gear. So I went to check by putting it in neutral and then back to fifth.  When I went to press the clutch pedal, there was no clutch pedal, you have one of those akward moments like how the fuck did I put my foot where there is a pedal, and there is no pedal. I don't panic cause I'm driving slow and take my foot off of the gas and slide it on the brake to make sure i'm not trippin and stepping on the foot stop.  Nope, you're not trippin, your clutch pedal went limp on you and yo...

So last weekend I needed to do some required maintenance to my girlfriends 1998 Camry, I can tell you since we've been dating I've changed her brake pads a total of 3 times (this being the third.) And have yet to change my front pads since I bought the car in 2008. (still plenty of life)  The reason was the bushings in her lower control arms were shot, there was a good 5-10mm of play in the wheel when the car was jacked up. It would violently add a few degree's of steering angle whenever turning left or whenever the torque converter would change gears. You can imagine what this also does to the brakes, and the rotors. Imagine trying to stop your car while trying to shake the wheel from left to right as fast as you could. Thats what it felt like to drive her car, and you can only imagine how fun that is in the dangerous southern California rain. So if you have an old automatic car that does something similar to what I'm explaining you might want to get some new cont...

Only Ghostface can rap over a ringing telephone lol. Anyway last night for me wasn't as adventurous as my mans. I was downstairs to check my ecu for codes, of course it's throwing code 43 why wouldn't it be. Car idles like shit, and I can't seem to figure out why. The wiring is good (although I spent more time trying to remember where I was supposed to plug in my multimeter cables lol) (43 is for tps) Ever since I got the car dyno tuned and my timing correct somehow my tps took a shit. No bueno, I reset the codes on the ecu and pulled the tps plug to check the wiring. I didn't really get any voltage on the signal wire (dur), I got 5v from the tps sender, and my ground is good. Put the car into the on position, plug in tps. pipe in the multimeter on the 5v channel and the signal wire and try to move the tps around. voltage is all over the place .17v, .55v. I think even at one time I got like .145v and it just kept counting upwards. I'm almost sure now ...

Ever since I got my car dyno'd at SR Motorcars and they took the car off of the dyno my TPS sensor stopped responding so the car runs great but always idles at 2000 rpms, there will be some odd days where it idles where it's supposed to. So I'm thinking they either messed up a run of wire, or they shorted my TPS sensor. The car doesn't run any differently if you unplug the tps or not. All of the intake ports were nice and clean believe it or not.  I thought my IACV was just dirty plus I stripped the adjustment screw so I took it apart anyway to clean it today. this little guy is the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)  So I got this guy loose, cleaned this area up, put the car back together, got the dremel out and made a nice notch in the adjuster for the IACV since it stripped. (it was already as low as it could go) car still idles at 1900-2000rpms. Glad it didn't take me all day to get this loose. Heat shield was covered in a layer of oil, so was the tu...

This is normally how you would see my car in the streets, dirty. I always wash my detailing stuff when I do laundry. Never wipe the car down with dirty towels. Better for the paint to just keep a layer of dirt on it then scratching it all to hell with dirty rags. deal with it.

Pretty much my whole blog roll blew up with this video today. Weds wheels keeping it real for the children, because they are the future. I mean the same goes for Work Wheels, Volk Racing wheels (Racing Hart is kind of suspect since my CP-10's) were a design rip off of Weds wheels Pretty much I don't understand what kind of instant gratification someone gets out of throwing a bunch of stupid shit on their car and then having the NERVE to call that shit a build, or be salty about someone who has a legit car nit picking at their choices. I dunno why it's just really funny to me. I bought my car with these volks on it, I didn't go and run and change them out for something else I just re-finished them for something I wanted ( unfortunately they didn't come back as candy apple red CE27's ). I just priced out a set of Weds Kranze LXZ's for my car because I want a set and it's about 5g's before shipping. Yeah it's expensive and I'd rather ...

I have an * on some parts, that I just haven't had a chance to purchase but it's on the list this year, or I have them and they're just uninstalled. Or I have indicated what the asterisk was used for. EXTERIOR Aero Ganador Sideview Mirrors Vertex Lang Aero / Fenders Masa Motorsports Bonnet * Ait Rear Roof Spoiler Paint is Magnetic Black (G41) with a Moss & Jade Green Pearl added.  Miscellaneous OEM Roof Skin Replacement Rear Fender Pull/Tubbed Antenna Shaved Nissan OEM Window Visors * Kouki Front End Conversion Removable Upper Core Support Conversion Aerocatch Hood latches w/ locks   DMAX Clear Turn Markers FOOTWORK Wheels Volk Racing GT-U Front: 17x9 +9 Rear: 18x10 +13 (+3)* Ichiba 10mm rear spacers GT Low center caps refinished in Magnetic Black, custom center sticker. Tires F: Falken 615K 245/40/17 R: Hankook RS-3 265/35/18   *...