Power Wind-roh oh!

So after getting everything said and done on the car it turns out that something is fucked up with my power windows. An important note, before troubleshooting any electrical, please identify what year model your car is by the sticker in the door, and not what is on your registration.

The 1995, and 1997 240sx S14 wiring is completely different for the power windows and located in entirely different sections of the FSM. The 1995 has it's own section for windows, locks, accessories in HF. The 1997 has the info in the EL section of the book and does not include the troubleshooting steps to test your system that the 1995 does.

So it's vital that you know this if you attempt to fix this matter.

I've already discovered the problem. But I will run you through it to see what I did to test and come to this conclusion.

So here I am again.

Notice the extreme excitement on my face.


So now, this crap is all in pieces.

The power window relay wire has 4 wires going to it.


(relay in question)

3. White/Red
2. Black
1. Green/Black
5.White/Black

I'll give you a breakdown of what it all means, ok Basil!
3. Function : This is the switched power to the windows, which isn't activated until you hit one of your up and down functions on either left or right windows.


It Goes to a 2 pin plug (M13) which has a circuit breaker on it (circuit breaker not pictured, but the plug is hanging there). On the other end of the circuit breaker is a 12ga blue/red (l/r) wire that goes to the male smj plug (M9) which connects to (E109). The blue/red wire on the female end of the SMJ (Super Multiple Junction) Goes to your engine bay fusebox to a 25amp fuse for constant battery power. I repeat, CONSTANT POWER.


In the FSM it is referred to as "i" in the fuseable link diagram. Which previously was in my engine bay, now inside of the car.

2. This is your constant ground.

1. is your ignition "on" 12v power, so you should only get power to the windows here
and last but not least.

5. goes to your power window switches. Driver and passenger side. If you know how a relay works, great, if not I'm not explaining it because I hate relays.

And that's that.

According to the fsm tests on the windows not working.

Number 3 on the power window relay is supposed to show battery voltage with the car on the off position, guess this is why I am having a problem.

It's showing continuity with a ground on the chassis. I know the wire is not exposed to anything but I cannot guarantee that the wire is not jointed with a ground somewhere, which is bad news.

Because I would have to take the whole dash out again to trace why this wire is grounding and where it's grounding.


It's also showing continuity from the fusable link, to the plug like it's supposed to. So I know the WRONG wire is not in place, but where it's grounding.

*shrugs*

beats me....

So I am going to tap into a constant power source somewhere else as a temporary fix, because not being able to roll up my windows is no bueno. My only concern is the 25 amp fuse that powers the relay, I think I'll wait for Jeff Jordan to give me his prognosis on how to wire it up to constant power. Knowing him he will tell me to eliminate the relay LOL!

I guess I'll go out there and do cool stuff like put my other ganador on and my rear bumper and side skirts.


Also ordered a new coil pack to replace a damaged one. I may be wrong, but I'm going to safely assume this is what's causing my break up. I actually noticed that sputtering back after I had the car parked and I pulled the s13 out for some fun while the sr20 was still in it. So it's not the gas, if it's not this then it's time to do a compression test to figure out where I am pressure wise.

Car ran fine before, so why it's being so weird now, not sure.