Showing posts from June, 2010

I got the glow.


smelly exhaust, no longer smelly.

hopped up in my car, turn that shit ooooon hear my exhaust scrape, on the driveway hump yeeaaaaah i'm getting, agrivated ooooooh.  Yeah, so my exhaust was covered in transmission oil, long story short (don't forget to put the oil boot over your shifter and zip tie it if you use that area to fill your transmission.) now it's not. Exhaust hanger broke, temp solution fixed exhaust leak, caused exhaust sag. vibrated to the lowest point and scrapped everything. hangar fixed, transmission bracket almost at it's highest point. No more scraping. No more smelly car @ 200 degrees.

Summary of my tuesday. part 1

I guess in short. I needed to fix my saggy ass intercooler and the bracket it mounted to. I needed to fix a new exhaust leak while welding my exhaust hangar back onto the exhaust. I needed to adjust my suspension so it's all level. Ended up biffing that last second and made the passenger side lower again I wanted to do a coolant flush and an oil change. But oil isn't neccessary, and I don't have a temp gauge so I can't bleed my cooling system until I can monitor the temps. I know it's running at 75-80c average before the gauge died. Stopped by little brothers paint shop, in fucking Hesperia, Ca. I was going to kidnap my front bumper for all star bash this weekend, but after seeing it and how close it is to actually being fixed and painted since we're here with my dad wiring in the power for my brothers huge ass air compressor. I'd rather wait for nisei to put it back on the car. There was a lot of wheelchairs in the shop my brother is co-leasing.

I am very happy to say.

That the car has been running great for the last 5 days. All it needs is coolant flush, oil change, and some new front tires. =) After the car shorted out the other day it took my radio with it. So I've just been listening to the sounds of my car. =(

This is why troubleshooting electrical is a headache.

This is the damage that was caused to my main power block. The video will kind of break down what the problem ended up being. This mainly is my fault for not just fixing the oem wire, but originally I thought the wipers didn't work due to many other factors when I originally built my car. Everything was oem spec and checked out. Turns out no power at all was going to the 20 amp fuse on the driver side kick panel. So we decided to put the 20 amp fuse in my fuse block and run a wire to it. The problem this created was the wiper positive power wire is ran through a relay ACC in the picture above. The squiggly line through 1 and 2 is a ground. 3 and 5 :| is switched power. My buddy Jeff can probably break down how this works better than I. But mainly instead of being on a relay which would've taken the brunt of a switched ground connection. By directly wiring the power to my fuse panel is it allows the wipers to have CONSTANT power with no relay re-routing the ground whe

I've narrowed it down but have not found the problem.

Man oh man am I going to be skull crushing today to figure this one out. In a nutshell the kick panel fuse box on the driver side has 4 relays in it. The first relay seems to be where my chassis grounding issue is. So it's a matter of tracing the pins that go to this relay. And finding out how it's grounding to the chassis. If I unplug the cable that goes to this relay slot the continuity between the positive power and negative post go away. If I remove the relay while the plug is still there. Continuity still exists, meaning no power since it's a constant ground on both + and -. EL14 through EL-17 is what will be needed for todays homework from the factory service manual. Anyone want to chime in where they think the culprit lays? To give you a hint on what you're looking at. The plug in question has 2 large white wires with blue stripes on this diagram white is W and blue is L. This would be referenced by a ( first color / second color ) designation, for examp

haha, looks like another weekend of ripping my car apart.

After fixing the ground issue with my battery this morning and changing the connector to a solid brass one that's going to keep the negative terminal from moving around. It seems my positive battery cable is grounding on the chassis somewhere most likely by the ecu or something. 10 percent chance I'm pulling the dash again tomorrow but first I'm going to try the process of elimination with my multimeter before I visually go looking for what the fuck is rubbing the power wire. Let me tell you, when the positive power wire was running under my car and ziptied to my brake lines. I had 0 problems with it. Ever since relocating it to the cabin for safety purposes. It has only caused more problems than peace of mind.

Little Bugger

I've been doing a lot of electrical work in my car lately, so I'm all about making sure all systems are 100 percent before I go driving off into the sunset. I turn my car on this morning, everything seems cool. I go to flip my fan on and bzzzttt... everything goes nuts, can't be a problem with the ground on the light. So I turned everything off and tried again. Car dies again. Try it again, car is running now, and just glitching, and rebooting all the way down the street. wtf gives. Pull into the gas station, lift my hood and leave the fan on, wiggle all power cables to see if there are any shorts in the bay. Nada. Pop the trunk and sure enough the negative cable is moving around inside of it's clamp. So it's like I'm constantly hitting the battery with the ground cable while the car is running (that can fry a few things.) So if you have a battery connector like this in my left hand. THROW IT AWAY. And get a little copper 3 dollar jam like this fro

@ the car wash

Dwende ass car... found my temp sensor wiring problem. Just wanted to make sure there was no corrosion or any drama. I lift the wires up and put them to the side and the car starts reading temp. (UPDATE: These fucking things are 55+ dollars brand new from greddy. GODAMNIT) Dope, grab my electrical tape go to wrap the wires up, one looks loose. I give it a little tug to make sure my crimp is legit (Jordan Innovations taught me this move) and bam, the wire comes off of the fucking sensor itself. I laughed real nice... Guess I was right, my wiring was legit, needed a new temp sender. Oh, I washed my car today and realized I don't have a legit "ass" shot. I eventually need to remove my roof wing and re tape it on, when I had the glass re-installed the window flexed and popped the tape off. Gay status.

Car oh car

I can't tell you guys how ecstatic I am about my strut tower bar purchase. It's like I got a lot for a little, less creaking, I can even feel the engine start up more solidly in the cabin. I've been really focused on just paying things off, and then last month was kinda off focus because I was just trying to get the godamned car running solid again. I don't know if I'm going to make it to TITS or ASB this year. I mean the best parts of those nights is the camping and drinking and waking up hung over like fuck me. I'm just focused on work, and getting a new daily. Getting my car ready for Nisei, and it's still going to look like shit IMO. and putting money away to do some major overhauling on my engine. Not thinking rebuild just yet. More like plumbing, wiring (again), and power. Once my wiring harness is done. it's DONE that's it no more. So I'm really going to put Simone on a diet when Jeff is ready to do the damn thing on this car. An