This is why troubleshooting electrical is a headache.

This is the damage that was caused to my main power block. The video will kind of break down what the problem ended up being.



This mainly is my fault for not just fixing the oem wire, but originally I thought the wipers didn't work due to many other factors when I originally built my car. Everything was oem spec and checked out. Turns out no power at all was going to the 20 amp fuse on the driver side kick panel.

So we decided to put the 20 amp fuse in my fuse block and run a wire to it.


The problem this created was the wiper positive power wire is ran through a relay ACC in the picture above. The squiggly line through 1 and 2 is a ground. 3 and 5 :| is switched power. My buddy Jeff can probably break down how this works better than I. But mainly instead of being on a relay which would've taken the brunt of a switched ground connection.

By directly wiring the power to my fuse panel is it allows the wipers to have CONSTANT power with no relay re-routing the ground when the switch is activated (I'm assuming I am explaining this right.) which is bad.

It's the equivalent of throwing a radio in a bathtub to your electrical system. What trips me out is instead of popping the fuse for the wire like it should have. It transferred the ground through the main power wires of the car. So the fuse never heated up to the point it was supposed to pop, instead it caused other things to heat up and melt.

Good thing it's summer, just one thing on the list to correct when the new harness is made.

So for you guys out there who are adding power to fuse boxes thinking (hey it's a fusebox this should be cool.) make sure you fully understand how it works before simply "fixing" it.

I'm lucky the car didn't catch on fire.

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