Forever Simone

Everyone loves a/n fittings, they're cool and shit. The whole reason my other valve cover hasn't been on and this loaner that's been sitting in Luis Gonzalez's backyard for who knows how long is on my car is because I wanted to add a/n fittings to my hybrid s13/14 valve cover. Now that I've done this a bunch of small hicups have caused me from putting it back on the car. From pvc valves going missing, to pvc insulators ripping, to not having a sufficient amount of a/n odd's and ends available for any hose configuration I may need.  engine bay dirt, oil, coolant, more dirt. Lets try and clean this up. A year on the same pan of amsoil, lol doesn't look too bad and there is no wear on the cam journals. Nice I don't know what pisses me off more, the fact that I recently purchased part 11812-41B00 and somehow have lost it or thrown it away. Or the fact that I buttoned this whole fucking valve cover and shit up to my engine and not having the pv

So when I initially made the lower harness on my car and did all of the fusebox relocation madness engine swap blah blah. My reverse lights have not worked since the KA24DE was yanked. They used to work before, but now no mi gusta. So I fucked something up somewhere along the lines and intended to get to the bottom of it.  I pulled these guys loose to check the filament, and so if my truck lit up I'd be able to deduce that these work.  There really is no troubleshooting procedure for the reverse lights.  But it's a fairly simple open and closed circuit type of deal. I obviously am a meathead and the concept of something being open/close easy takes some trial and error before figuring out where the problem is. So here is the circuit diagram.  In a nutshell when you throw the car in reverse it triggers the sensor in the transmission to close the circuit like a relay and boom current travels and turns reverse lights on. So you can do two things from what I'v

And ended up taking on 2 projects, and never fucking with those lights. LOL! So I stopped at autozone, bought some offset wrenches ( not paying attention to what size they were so they were returned .) some silicone, some nuts, stopped at home depot, picked up some primer, hammered black paint, 2 steel wool pads and a wetsand block. Above is my random box of parts I've yet to bother installing.  I dug into the valve cover first, I need to put it back on my car. I originally was going to have something crazy done like mimic'ing the exceed moat/yashio factory style valve cover. And now that I've decided to just throw an LS motor in my car because it's the cool thing to do. I decided I didn't want to waste 200 bucks to just paint something I'll never really look at and end up selling and taking a loss on. So I did what any other cheap ass person would do. I black bombed it to oem spec.  I started off by rounding the a/n weld on a tad and smoothing

I did my crossfit thing and then headed out to Irwindale to hang out with Jeff at his shop to see what new developments have transpired on his FD. The car is in pieces waiting for the fabricator to finish it up, looks pretty cool at the moment however. Jeff has tires all mounted up on Lee's wheels from BRS Designs, they want to help get Jeff on the track and represent. The work wheels on the right will be performing the track duty with the new Hankook Ventus TD If you would like more info about the Ventus TD's you can check it out here .  My charge speed rear overs came in, shit gets here pretty fast from japan, only took a week. Everyone makes it seem like these take forever to get in your hands. I will also be ordering up a set of fronts pretty soon to replace my vertex fenders. I need something a bit wider up front with great craftsmanship and chargespeed is butter. Worth every dollar spent!!! Going to have to have the antenna hole filled on the dr

Few examples of 50mm chargespeed rear fenders. This is what the rear arches of my car will look like as opposed to the uneven roll I have now. The main cool thing about these is I can get them painted while off of the car and just add them on no problemo, business as usual. Although I eventually would like to have them molded onto the car, I need to get a repaint, nothing fancy.  I can't wait until the LXZ's are sitting like those wheels on the white s14 from japan. I'll probably get a larger rear tire and throw the 265/35/18's up for sale or upfront. May get some chargespeed front fenders as well and fill the vents to make the car have an oem widebody look like the silbeer s13 . If you want to see the process behind filling the front fender vents on aftermarket fenders here is an awesome blog post by Toby aka Broadfield! http://broadfield.wordpress.com/2010/05/19/filling-some-fender-vents/  Till next time.  - Wayne - 

I'm not too sure if  Nissan road racing is a public forum you can browse without a membership. But there are a lot of quality threads on there, for a while now I've wanted some options to spruce up the rear brakes on my car without doing a z32 rear swap. Rear z32 brake setup Rally Design Patented 4 piston powerlite caliper with integrated handbrake cable http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=11370 While I'm sure the benefits of the swap are great, it's a lot of old un-sprung weight and a huge hassle to switch the rear brakes over to a drum break setup . I personally hate the shit out of drum breaks, and have no reason to have a dual caliper hydro setup because I NEVER plan on drifting this car. I just want something that's functional, and will let me park the car while looking good. I posted that I purchased some Z31 caliper brackets which will let me push my calipers out just a tad and run a larger rotor while maintaining my O