Check your plugs
An SR20DET is a very old motor, it's best to always check things on it occasionally since you probably have it in an old ass car too. My motor is from a 1991-1993 Nissan Silvia (S13) Chassis this motor is or almost is 20 years old. It doesn't seem as if it has been rebuilt either all of these years and runs like a champion.
A lot of people are curious as to why I went with an s13 redtop as opposed to going with an s14sr20det. A huge factor was price point, back in 2008 and as long as I can remember the only people that will sell and install the newest version of the sr20det motor and hook up A/C want about 6-7 grand just to get you started.
That's just not financially feasable to me, I can see paying 6-7 grand for a mazworx motor or something but for a stock ass engine. There is just no way. I purchased my redtop for 2800 dollars which included a ford taurus fan (probably the best electric fan you can run with a built in shroud.) an oversized radiator (like bigger than my fucking core support) and a front mount intercooler with a blitz bov. All I had to do was figure out the wiring, did I mention an s13 came with all of that.
It's one thing to click and buy something on the internet, and it's another thing to drive the car with the motor you're going to buy in it at 10lbs of boost. Probably was pushing 230-240hp and literally threw me in the boot of the car (because the passenger seat was broken).
Anyway I'm veering off subject.
I decided to check my plugs because I decided to run a slightly hotter plug, most people will recommend the NGK BKR7-E as the heat range is cooler on this plug. I am running a BKR6-E (tried a 5 and ran like shit but it was the only thing someone had in stock at the time.)
Here is a little educational video from NGK in case you cannot see the embedded video above http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbR75wq9nmM advising a bit more on heat ranges and how spark plugs function. A great read also can be found on NGK's website educating you on spark plugs http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/index.asp
Either way because of the oil on the hot side of my motor I wanted to check the plugs to make sure there was no oil on the tips or threads to ensure all of my rings are still good on the bottom end. I want to make sure 100 percent the turbo is on it's way out rather than assuming this is blow by from the engine.
Sure enough all of the coil packs look great, nice and clean minimal residue so all of the valve cover seals are still good. The spark plugs were all dry no oil or burnt oil on the tips, normal wear across the board. However I may go back to a 7 heat range, I just wanted to try 6 due to the California weather as an experiment.
This engine is going to last me quite a while which is a good thing because I won't have to rush the rebuilding of the spare long block I am picking up.
So just remember to do regular maintenance on your car, check things that are working right just in case, you never know what may be causing you a headache in the future.
A lot of people are curious as to why I went with an s13 redtop as opposed to going with an s14sr20det. A huge factor was price point, back in 2008 and as long as I can remember the only people that will sell and install the newest version of the sr20det motor and hook up A/C want about 6-7 grand just to get you started.
That's just not financially feasable to me, I can see paying 6-7 grand for a mazworx motor or something but for a stock ass engine. There is just no way. I purchased my redtop for 2800 dollars which included a ford taurus fan (probably the best electric fan you can run with a built in shroud.) an oversized radiator (like bigger than my fucking core support) and a front mount intercooler with a blitz bov. All I had to do was figure out the wiring, did I mention an s13 came with all of that.
It's one thing to click and buy something on the internet, and it's another thing to drive the car with the motor you're going to buy in it at 10lbs of boost. Probably was pushing 230-240hp and literally threw me in the boot of the car (because the passenger seat was broken).
Anyway I'm veering off subject.
I decided to check my plugs because I decided to run a slightly hotter plug, most people will recommend the NGK BKR7-E as the heat range is cooler on this plug. I am running a BKR6-E (tried a 5 and ran like shit but it was the only thing someone had in stock at the time.)
Here is a little educational video from NGK in case you cannot see the embedded video above http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbR75wq9nmM advising a bit more on heat ranges and how spark plugs function. A great read also can be found on NGK's website educating you on spark plugs http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/index.asp
Either way because of the oil on the hot side of my motor I wanted to check the plugs to make sure there was no oil on the tips or threads to ensure all of my rings are still good on the bottom end. I want to make sure 100 percent the turbo is on it's way out rather than assuming this is blow by from the engine.
Sure enough all of the coil packs look great, nice and clean minimal residue so all of the valve cover seals are still good. The spark plugs were all dry no oil or burnt oil on the tips, normal wear across the board. However I may go back to a 7 heat range, I just wanted to try 6 due to the California weather as an experiment.
This engine is going to last me quite a while which is a good thing because I won't have to rush the rebuilding of the spare long block I am picking up.
So just remember to do regular maintenance on your car, check things that are working right just in case, you never know what may be causing you a headache in the future.
