Custom Electronics for the Non Electrician.
In 2009 when I took it upon myself to relocate my engine bay fusebox to the passenger side airbag area of my car. My electrical experience was in building pc's, I'm not the guy who knows how a circuit works, how a relay functions, or how many ohmz, volts, or amps is traveling through a wire and what size wire is needed to accomodate that flow of energy.
And I suspect many of you are in the same boat. Obviously there was a
better way to approach this but again now I have more knowledge of
electrical after troubleshooting all of the mishaps, but because I have a
good friend who started his own business doing this stuff for a living
and he has an electrical engineering background doing wire harnesses for
helicopters in the military. I leave changes and suggestions up to him.
I eventually started to have some issues such ass my battery wasn't charging (battery relocated to the trunk of the car as well when I bought it.) I have since re-routed the wire to a safer location (not by the fuel lines under the car =/ where they were originally.) But now running alongside the rear body harness wiring protected in the oem shielding. It was narrowed down to me sucking ass at crimping 4gauge wire, and eventually the vibration from the motor loosened up the charging wire.
Thus giving intermittent on and off charging to the battery and destroying an alternator. Some time had passed since then, now I noticed my car would have some charging issues yet again, all the cables previously ridden with problems were replaced and re-crimped but my charging setup was running retarded hot. Turns out after having Jeff look it over he determined my charging setup (although it worked) was incorrect and actually dangerous. So we re-routed how my charging wire setup was, and relocated the two wires going into the bigger fuse junction box onto the fuse panel and eliminated the 60/80 fuse setup from the factory I tried to replicate.
So now I have a 4ga wire that provides positive power from the battery, linked to a 100amp fuse. The silver wire goes to the starter which has a wiring going to the battery in the trunk, and a wire is daisy chained from the starter to the alternator. to charge everything else in the chain. Battery is grounded in the trunk (dur)
Body electrical is now handled by the junction fusebox and we never hooked up the a/c - blower motor wiring because I didn't have any space left on the fuse panel. I'll eventually upgrade to a 12 fuse box instead of a 10. Or something like one of the boards from performance-electronics.com I saw Ryan B. Use on one of his projects. That way I can have a cleaner box made rather than my shitty plexiglass box.
Lately my passenger side headlight has been acting up. The car originally was a Zenki 240sx, the headlight wiring requires two wires for the headlights where as a Kouki projector just requires power and a ground. I didn't realize this when I originally sleeved the body harness so I have an extra power wire hanging out at each end both caped off and taped up, but I'm sure it could cause a problem given a certain situation.
This started happening way back when but I think the charging issues I mentioned above started to exacerbate things. So here is a photo of my passenger headlight wiring which I have removed the fuse from for the time being.
Turns out not enough current is flowing through the wire to break the fuse like it should but it's enough to slowly heat it up. And last thing I need is the fusebox that powers the entire car to melt on me. So I'm assuming it's either touching somewhere or something is making contact on the bottom of the fusebox. I got so much money tied up right now with wheels and court that I have none to spare on shit I would like to have done. But I guess it's time to hit the drawing board and figure out how I'm going to handle the interior electronics of this car with the help of Jeff.
Stay tuning,
-Wayne
 |
| 2009 relocation of fusebox and panel, relays located on the underside. |
I eventually started to have some issues such ass my battery wasn't charging (battery relocated to the trunk of the car as well when I bought it.) I have since re-routed the wire to a safer location (not by the fuel lines under the car =/ where they were originally.) But now running alongside the rear body harness wiring protected in the oem shielding. It was narrowed down to me sucking ass at crimping 4gauge wire, and eventually the vibration from the motor loosened up the charging wire.
 |
| 2011 Jeff Jordan saves the day! |
Thus giving intermittent on and off charging to the battery and destroying an alternator. Some time had passed since then, now I noticed my car would have some charging issues yet again, all the cables previously ridden with problems were replaced and re-crimped but my charging setup was running retarded hot. Turns out after having Jeff look it over he determined my charging setup (although it worked) was incorrect and actually dangerous. So we re-routed how my charging wire setup was, and relocated the two wires going into the bigger fuse junction box onto the fuse panel and eliminated the 60/80 fuse setup from the factory I tried to replicate.
 |
| The end product being this guy. |
Body electrical is now handled by the junction fusebox and we never hooked up the a/c - blower motor wiring because I didn't have any space left on the fuse panel. I'll eventually upgrade to a 12 fuse box instead of a 10. Or something like one of the boards from performance-electronics.com I saw Ryan B. Use on one of his projects. That way I can have a cleaner box made rather than my shitty plexiglass box.
Lately my passenger side headlight has been acting up. The car originally was a Zenki 240sx, the headlight wiring requires two wires for the headlights where as a Kouki projector just requires power and a ground. I didn't realize this when I originally sleeved the body harness so I have an extra power wire hanging out at each end both caped off and taped up, but I'm sure it could cause a problem given a certain situation.
This started happening way back when but I think the charging issues I mentioned above started to exacerbate things. So here is a photo of my passenger headlight wiring which I have removed the fuse from for the time being.
 |
| Taken about 20 minutes ago before posting on the blog. |
Turns out not enough current is flowing through the wire to break the fuse like it should but it's enough to slowly heat it up. And last thing I need is the fusebox that powers the entire car to melt on me. So I'm assuming it's either touching somewhere or something is making contact on the bottom of the fusebox. I got so much money tied up right now with wheels and court that I have none to spare on shit I would like to have done. But I guess it's time to hit the drawing board and figure out how I'm going to handle the interior electronics of this car with the help of Jeff.
Stay tuning,
-Wayne
