Forever Simone

hopped up in my car, turn that shit ooooon hear my exhaust scrape, on the driveway hump yeeaaaaah i'm getting, agrivated ooooooh.  Yeah, so my exhaust was covered in transmission oil, long story short (don't forget to put the oil boot over your shifter and zip tie it if you use that area to fill your transmission.) now it's not. Exhaust hanger broke, temp solution fixed exhaust leak, caused exhaust sag. vibrated to the lowest point and scrapped everything. hangar fixed, transmission bracket almost at it's highest point. No more scraping. No more smelly car @ 200 degrees.

I guess in short. I needed to fix my saggy ass intercooler and the bracket it mounted to. I needed to fix a new exhaust leak while welding my exhaust hangar back onto the exhaust. I needed to adjust my suspension so it's all level. Ended up biffing that last second and made the passenger side lower again I wanted to do a coolant flush and an oil change. But oil isn't neccessary, and I don't have a temp gauge so I can't bleed my cooling system until I can monitor the temps. I know it's running at 75-80c average before the gauge died. Stopped by little brothers paint shop, in fucking Hesperia, Ca. I was going to kidnap my front bumper for all star bash this weekend, but after seeing it and how close it is to actually being fixed and painted since we're here with my dad wiring in the power for my brothers huge ass air compressor. I'd rather wait for nisei to put it back on the car. There was a lot of wheelchairs in the shop my brother is co-leasing....

That the car has been running great for the last 5 days. All it needs is coolant flush, oil change, and some new front tires. =) After the car shorted out the other day it took my radio with it. So I've just been listening to the sounds of my car. =(

This is the damage that was caused to my main power block. The video will kind of break down what the problem ended up being. This mainly is my fault for not just fixing the oem wire, but originally I thought the wipers didn't work due to many other factors when I originally built my car. Everything was oem spec and checked out. Turns out no power at all was going to the 20 amp fuse on the driver side kick panel. So we decided to put the 20 amp fuse in my fuse block and run a wire to it. The problem this created was the wiper positive power wire is ran through a relay ACC in the picture above. The squiggly line through 1 and 2 is a ground. 3 and 5 :| is switched power. My buddy Jeff can probably break down how this works better than I. But mainly instead of being on a relay which would've taken the brunt of a switched ground connection. By directly wiring the power to my fuse panel is it allows the wipers to have CONSTANT power with no relay re-routing the ground whe...

Man oh man am I going to be skull crushing today to figure this one out. In a nutshell the kick panel fuse box on the driver side has 4 relays in it. The first relay seems to be where my chassis grounding issue is. So it's a matter of tracing the pins that go to this relay. And finding out how it's grounding to the chassis. If I unplug the cable that goes to this relay slot the continuity between the positive power and negative post go away. If I remove the relay while the plug is still there. Continuity still exists, meaning no power since it's a constant ground on both + and -. EL14 through EL-17 is what will be needed for todays homework from the factory service manual. Anyone want to chime in where they think the culprit lays? To give you a hint on what you're looking at. The plug in question has 2 large white wires with blue stripes on this diagram white is W and blue is L. This would be referenced by a ( first color / second color ) designation, for examp...

After fixing the ground issue with my battery this morning and changing the connector to a solid brass one that's going to keep the negative terminal from moving around. It seems my positive battery cable is grounding on the chassis somewhere most likely by the ecu or something. 10 percent chance I'm pulling the dash again tomorrow but first I'm going to try the process of elimination with my multimeter before I visually go looking for what the fuck is rubbing the power wire. Let me tell you, when the positive power wire was running under my car and ziptied to my brake lines. I had 0 problems with it. Ever since relocating it to the cabin for safety purposes. It has only caused more problems than peace of mind.