Posts

There is still hope for MASA

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Dear Wayne T. Edwards,   Your question regarding product MASA MOTOR SPORTS M-Tune Aero Bonnet Hood - Fashion Carbon Nissan Stagea C34 has been answered   Your question: Why is this part showing up in the Sylvia portion of your website, are you guys no longer able to obtain this part for the S14 Sylvia or was it some technical error that listed the Stagea bonnet all over the s14 aero page. Would like to place an order for this in June if possible. MASA MOTOR SPORTS M-Tune Aero Bonnet Hood - Fashion Carbon Nissan Stagea C34 Their answer is: Not sure, but it is only for the stagea. our IT team is looking in to this. There is still hope!!! 

The Blueprint

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Lets talk 2011-2012 motor build shall we. I finally picked up my spare redtop from David aka Turtle_m3th on Zilvia. Real cool dude. Came with the intake manifold as I requested and spare temp sensors. Everything else wasn't really needed. The specs on the motor can be found in my previous entry here . I was browsing maxworx website and came across these, they offer a whole A/N Radiator hose setup for sr20 to go along with these fellas. Pictured are the cnc billet aluminum fittings which you can read more about here . There is also a thermostat option for 25 bucks more (obviously the fitting on the left would change.) But how cool is this. I have yet to see a picture of these installed on a motor as I think theyre might be some pulley clearance issues with that thermostat piece. I may bite the bullet on these since I planned on doing an a/n setup radiator anyway. (still keeping the taurus fan and shroud setup, hands down best electric fan setup if you're not keeping the st...

Check your plugs

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An SR20DET is a very old motor, it's best to always check things on it occasionally since you probably have it in an old ass car too. My motor is from a 1991-1993 Nissan Silvia (S13) Chassis this motor is or almost is 20 years old. It doesn't seem as if it has been rebuilt either all of these years and runs like a champion. A lot of people are curious as to why I went with an s13 redtop as opposed to going with an s14sr20det. A huge factor was price point, back in 2008 and as long as I can remember the only people that will sell and install the newest version of the sr20det motor and hook up A/C want about 6-7 grand just to get you started. That's just not financially feasable to me, I can see paying 6-7 grand for a mazworx motor or something but for a stock ass engine. There is just no way. I purchased my redtop for 2800 dollars which included a ford taurus fan (probably the best electric fan you can run with a built in shroud.) an oversized radiator (like bigger than ...

Plans for 2011-2012

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people like pictures, so I'm just going to explain that way.  18x10 -7(r) and -3(f) deposit for them to be made is happening in June. -sr20det redtop -cp pistons bored to 86.5 -eagle rods -arp rod/head bolts -Apexi 87mmx1.2mm head gasket -new oil pump -new water pump -new timing chain and guides has a spun bearing, which is fine will have bottom end looked at and will replace all arp studs with mazworx spec sr20 studs. worst case scenario new crank and bearings. Picking it up next weekend. 7064 twinscroll .93 a/r capable of 45lbs of boost. retarded! A/N Radiator setup. -16 fittings and hose will integrate water temp sender and swirl tank. and Tucked A/C setup. Still looking for 97-98 HVAC parts, may just buy what I need new from Nissan. not my valve cover Danny Gonzales (Inland180 on Zilvia) was referred by me to my welder Luis Gonzales, owner of (Fineline Tuning) to have a hybrid valve cover made, and was inspired by choices in my build thread t...

I think we're all squared.

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More and more I am starting to think that there is nothing wrong with my turbo and that my rings may actually be shot on number 1. the blowby my car is getting is down right retarded, but that's a subject for another day. I'll have a compression test done before I get into any of that madness. I tore the harness apart tonight and inspected what needed inspecting. I put a fresh piece of wire from the shielded signal wire to my tps straight onto the connector pin itself. Turns out the shielded wiring is grounded at the ecu. It does not need to be grounded at the other end, however it should not be touching any solder joints. Which mine was, so this explains why my tps was being fucking whacky. Here is the harness all back together. And after I got it all buttoned up, cleared the ecu codes and set it at .45 volts like instructed to. Call me a happy camper, I seriously was contemplating buying a new engine harness, mine has been butchered all to hell since the swap origin...

Need for Tow > Need for Speed 2 gathering.

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How can I put this, when it rains it pours?  I cannot express enough how grateful I am for the friends that I have made throughout my car. I was headed to a buddies house to grab a spare IAVC/AAC and TPS sensor for my car to fix the idle issue that's been bugging the shit out of me for half a year now. I stop at starbucks, get my coffee on cause I'm tired as fuck. Hop on the freeway and get my cruise on, and for some reason my rpm's just seemed high to me like I was only in third gear. So I went to check by putting it in neutral and then back to fifth.  When I went to press the clutch pedal, there was no clutch pedal, you have one of those akward moments like how the fuck did I put my foot where there is a pedal, and there is no pedal. I don't panic cause I'm driving slow and take my foot off of the gas and slide it on the brake to make sure i'm not trippin and stepping on the foot stop.  Nope, you're not trippin, your clutch pedal went limp on you and yo...

Ding Dong the TPS sensor is dead.

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So last weekend I needed to do some required maintenance to my girlfriends 1998 Camry, I can tell you since we've been dating I've changed her brake pads a total of 3 times (this being the third.) And have yet to change my front pads since I bought the car in 2008. (still plenty of life)  The reason was the bushings in her lower control arms were shot, there was a good 5-10mm of play in the wheel when the car was jacked up. It would violently add a few degree's of steering angle whenever turning left or whenever the torque converter would change gears. You can imagine what this also does to the brakes, and the rotors. Imagine trying to stop your car while trying to shake the wheel from left to right as fast as you could. Thats what it felt like to drive her car, and you can only imagine how fun that is in the dangerous southern California rain. So if you have an old automatic car that does something similar to what I'm explaining you might want to get some new cont...